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Dramatically
situated in the Gulf of Gaeta, the island of Ischia is of volcanic
origin. Its thermal spas claim cures for almost anything. Called the Emerald Island, Ischia is studded with pine groves and
surrounded by sparkling waters that wash up on many sandy beaches (a
popular one is Sant'Angelo). In Greek mythology, it was the home of
Typhoeus (Typhon), who created volcanoes and fathered the
three-headed canine Cerberus, guardian of the gateway to Hades, and
the incongruous Chimera and Sphinx.
The island covers just over 47 sq. km (18 sq.
miles), and its prominent feature is Monte Epomeo, near the center, a
volcano that was a powerful force and source of worry for the Greek
colonists who settled here in the 8th century B.C.
Today, the 789m (2,590-ft.) peak is dead, having last erupted in the
14th century, but it's still responsible for warming the island's
thermal springs. Ischia slumbered for centuries after its early
turbulence, although some discerning visitors discovered its charms.
Ibsen, for example, lived in a villa near Casamicciola to find the
solitude necessary to complete Peer Gynt. However, in the 1950s,
Ischia was discovered, this time by wealthy Italians who built a
slew of first-class hotels in the process of trying to avoid the
overrun resorts of Capri.
The island is known for its sandy beaches, health spas (which
utilize the hot springs for hydromassage and mud baths), and
vineyards producing the red and white Monte Epomeo, the red and
white Ischia, and the white Biancolella. The largest community is at
Ischia Porto on the eastern coast, a circular town seated in the
crater of the extinct Monte Epomeo, which functions as the island's
main port of call. The most lively town is Forio on the western
coast, with its many bars along tree-lined streets. The other major
communities are Lacco Ameno and Casamicciola Terme, on the north
shore, and Serrara Fontana and Barano d'Ischia, inland and to the
south. |