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Is the most civilized of Tuscany's cities, a stately grid of Roman roads
snug behind a mammoth belt of tree-topped battlements. It's home to Puccini
and soft pastel plasters, an elegant landscape of churches and palaces,
delicate facades, and Art Nouveau shopfronts on wide promenades. The sure
lines of the churches here inspired John Ruskin to study architecture, and
though the center isn't the traffic-free Eden many guides lead you to
believe, cars truly are few and far between. Everyone from rebellious teens
to fruit-shopping grandmothers tools around on bicycles. |